One hot summer day I arrived at Gillies Coffee in Sunset Park. I've been drinking espresso since I was five. My first bank was a Medaglia d'Oro coffee can. I really had to know if Gillies was the oldest coffee roaster in Brooklyn. The garage door was open. So, I walked inside and asked someone. He escorted me to an office trailer and a few minutes later - to my surprise - the owner himself came out to greet me. While I would have been grateful for a glimpse and a whiff, Donald Schoenholt gave me - a perfect stranger - a private tour of the entire roasting operation.
You see, Donald is a mensch. To roughly translate, he's a stand-up guy who would do you a good turn and not ask anything back if you needed a hand.
The Gillies family had been in the coffee business since 1840 when Wright Gillies, a Scotsman, opened a coffee business in lower Manhattan. In 1843 he invested in a horse-powered roaster. Talk about going green. Early in the 20th Century, the Schoenholt family took ownership. Fortunately, the Schoenholts were no strangers to the coffee business. Before Starbucks and countless coffee retailers displaced New York's iconic anthora coffee cup, Gillies had several successful retail outlets of their own. Donald likes to say he knows more about coffee than business, but in a move nothing short of clairvoyant Gillies closed shop to focus on the wholesale business. He effectively converted the barbarians at the gate into customers.
Donald, with his distinctive New York accent, is a natural storyteller. He relishes talk about innovators in the coffee business like the Arbuckle brothers who pioneered methods of distributing roasted coffee and bygone brands like Osborn's Celebrated Prepared Java Coffee, the first to be individually packaged. His vision is global. After all, the beans come from everywhere - from Brazil to Tanzania. Ask, and he'll tell you that Gillies is the oldest continuously operating roaster in the Western Hemisphere.
Experienced as he may be, Donald continues to rely on advice handed down to him by his grandparents. About quality, Donald praises his grandmother who taught him about "garbage in, garbage out" long before computer scientists popularized the phrase. In explaining how long roasted coffee needs to sit before packaging, he recounts his other grandmother's advice about how good things come to those who wait.
I happened to bike by after Hurricane Sandy on my way to Red Hook. There was a gas shortage and they needed enough to make a delivery to a hospital. A local brewer reached out to Donald because his supplier was out of commission. He had heard that Donald was a stand-up guy. He and his employees stood around debating options like a family pulling together, one even suggesting to siphon gas out of his own car's tank. I suppose if you work for a mensch like Donald, one may be inclined to make such an offer.
