Artisanal. A Family Thing.

Michael Rogak, Chocolatier

Ask Michael Rogak about the meaning of the word artisanal and he’ll give it to you straight. It’s about making small batches with skilled manual labor. Is that all? Isn’t there a lot more to it than that? After all, there’s a certain aura around the word that makes it seem hip and trendy. Perhaps it’s the whole artisanal way of life? Or maybe marketers have overused the word and made it altogether meaningless. To Mr. Rogak artisanal is simply not enough to breathe life into a business and to keep it going.

Michael Rogak should know. He comes from a family of artisanal candy makers. His grandfather immigrated from Russia to make candy here in Brooklyn back in the 1920s. Later his father got into the business. And when it was Michael’s turn his father made it clear that while he may never become wealthy he’ll always be able to take care of his family. So, back when JoMart Chocolates started in 1946 it wasn’t a money thing. It was a family thing. In fact, Marissa, his daughter, works alongside Michael today and, though he may be enjoying the taste of candy more than anything else right now, it’s likely that little Jake will get into the act one day too.

Years ago it was sad to see the other confectioners - and Brooklyn had many - leaving town. So, when the newcomers started making their way to Brooklyn it was refreshing. The trouble is that in selling the word artisanal as something new and fashionable one may come to doubt that an artisanal business that’s been around as long as JoMart’s can still make anything good. But JoMart isn’t an enormous out-of touch corporation. Look past the word at the artisans themselves and one may find a family like Michael’s preserving a tradition of making candy that continues to delight the neighborhood and beyond.